How to Hang Drywall

How to hang drywall

Drywall, plasterboard, and gypsum board are synonyms for the generic term of this product. To hang drywall is considered a job for big strong men. However, armed with a guideline and some important information, hanging drywall can be accomplished by just almost everyone. The challenge would be on the size and bulk of each board piece. Not only do they weigh about 40 pounds each, but their size is bulky and heavy.

We have conceived this short guide to help you through hanging drywall on your walls and ceiling;

1 Purchase the drywall. Drywall is sold in several sizes: 4 x 8 feet (1.2 x 2.4 m), 4 x 10 feet (1.2 x 3 m) and 4 x 12 feet (1.2 x 3.6 m) are the most common sizes in the market. However, the 4’ x 8’ is the easiest to handle and works very well for most wall and ceiling jobs. The 4.5’ width sheets are also available at construction supply houses.

A drywall sheet will cost just a few dollars per sheet for the 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) thick size. This is the most common thickness which works well for most application (walls and ceiling).

Haul the drywall sheets home flat, in the bed of a pickup truck so it doesn’t break or bend while in transit. In storing your sheets for more than a few days, store them flat on top of each other to avoid warps and broken corners.

2 Assemble your tools and supplies. There only a few tools needed to hang the drywall. These include; a utility knife and spare blades, a hammer for nails or drywall screw drill, plenty of special screws and nails, and for cutting and measuring a straight edge. (Drywall T-squares are now available just for this)
Drywall can be installed using nails or screws. Using nails could end up making larger “divots” to protect against the larger hammer face. However, these can easily be filled later when taping. Screws on the other hand are the first choice of professionals these days.

Consider getting a drywall foot-lift. Let us understand that your drywall is usually installed 1/2-inch (1.27 cm) above the ground. Therefore a lift will help you prop up the drywall as you nail or screw it to the studs.

3 Remove the old drywall. When renovating, you should remove the old drywall instead of patching up the drywall in several pieces. The old drywall will need to be pried using a crowbar from the studs and ceiling joists, being careful not to connect with any electrical or other wiring installed behind the drywall.

4 Make a thorough job of cleaning the mess. To install the new drywall, left over little pieces from the old walls and ceiling may get in your way making the job difficult. Clean up the mess using the shop vacuum or simply use a broom.

5 Remove all nails or screws from the exposed studs and ceiling joists. While the old nails can be hammered into wood studs, it would be best to remove them to avoid hitting them with the new nails or screws you will put in later. Check by running a hammer down each stud and make sure you pulled every screw and nail.

6 Measure out every drywall sheet before hanging. Measure and cut every drywall sheet so each end lands on the center of a stud or joist. Drywall sheet joints that are unsupported by a stud or joist will definitely crack. Sand every cut with a planer or a rasp to fit the sheets.

Note: Do not use red chalk to snap lines on your drywall sheets it will only bleed through the finish paint.

7 Glue each stud and joist before installing the drywall sheets. Run a bead of glue down each stud that will be covered by the drywall. Do this immediately just before you hang your drywall. While professionals do not do this, it is recommended for beginners.

8 Hang the toughest part first — the ceiling. The order of hanging the drywall actually matters. If you have rented a drywall lifter, this lifts the sheets up by hydraulics all you do is nail or screw the pieces to the joists conveniently. But if you don’t have the lift, you can build two T-shaped supports, sometimes called Deadmen. (Nail together two 1×3′s into a T-shape. The Two Ts will support each end of the drywall sheet. Measure them as to the exact height of your ceiling for them to hold the sheets solidly in place. Lifting by hand, slid in the Deadmen under the drywall sheet to fix it in place against the ceiling joists. You can nail or screw it up then.

Mark the ceiling joist centers on the top plate to save much cursing. Start from a corner when hanging sheets and not from the center going outwards. Begin from one corner moving to a straight perpendicular line. Move on to the next row after you finish one row.

9 Mark the stud centers on the ceiling drywall. Screw or nail the drywall sheet to each stud that it covers. You can use a stud finder to locate the stud’s position, commonly they are 16 inches (~40 cm) apart and then screw or nail four or five evenly-spaced screws into the drywall along the studs.

There are not too many code requirements for installing drywall sheets, unless you are constructing fire-rated walls. Professionals use screws at 12 inches apart. They believe they secure the board better. While nails are still in use, the majority are now using screws.

Be sure to install the drywall perpendicular according to its frame, true for the walls and ceiling. Drywall is manufactured with its strength running along its length. This way, you get a stronger final product.

10 Cut the drywall using a utility knife and a t-square. You don’t need to cut hard to get a drywall the shape you really want. In cutting, score a line through the face-paper (the front side of the drywall). Then break the drywall by snapping away from the cut.

You may need to cut the drywall into a less regular shape, to fit an air-conditioning unit. Continue the same process as you regularly would, carefully cutting off little by little instead of making a big cut. You can always cut off more but you can’t put back what has been removed.

11To start on the walls after completing the ceiling. Because of its make, the drywall should be hung horizontally. Hang the top piece first. Butt it up to the piece on the ceiling and nail or screw the sheet. This may probably take more than one person to do. Remember to start from one (top) corner and work on only one row before moving on to the next row.

Butt the bottom sheets up to the top pieces on the walls. A little space is okay, but they should be close enough to one another. These joints are going to be taped and mud later.

12 Continue around the room until complete. Minimizing mistakes work slowly but steadily and make sure you plan every row beforehand. While hanging drywall, remember to:

• Glue studs before hoisting the drywall into place
• Gun in four or five screws on a stud making sure they hit the stud behind the drywall. Don’t be gentle just punch the crews in with the gun running.
• Cut around fixtures, doors, windows and other obstacles. If an obstacle becomes difficult to work around, this time consult a contractor.
• To make sure none are sticking out check all the screws or nails with a drywall knife. The crews and nails you miss will have to be driven out when you begin taping later.

13 Let us cover the seam between the pieces of the drywall sheets, both on the inside and outside corners. This improves insulation and gives a pleasing final product aesthetically.

14 Finishing the drywall would now involve covering the entire drywall with a thin layer of joint compound and then scraping it to achieve an even effect. This step is in preparation for its final touch.

15 Your finished wall is ready for its final touch. Finally prime then paint it with the color of your choice to have that beautiful new room.

NOTATIONS: There are 2 types of tape: Paper and plastic mesh. Professionals prefer plastic mesh because it sticks to the seam before any compound is applied. A joint compound should be applied neatly as you can to reduce sanding. For beginners, three coat application of the joint compound would be sufficient, each one after the prior dries up. In coating, the second and third applications are almost twice wider than its prior to have an evenly surface on your board. Then you can sand all compound till smooth, then prime all drywall and apply final coats of paint with the color of your choice.  You have hang drywall successfully.